Watch: Juan Arango demonstrates the full replacement and loop-making process

Why Closing Loop Integrity Matters

Your closing loop has one job: keep the closing pin seated so your container stays shut during freefall. It's a small piece of cord, but it's under tension every time you pack and every time you jump. Over time, friction from the pin wears down the fibers. UV exposure and repeated load cycles do the rest. Eventually, the loop weakens to the point where it can break — and if that happens in freefall, you have a serious problem.

The Horseshoe Malfunction

When a closing loop breaks in freefall, the closing pin comes free and the deployment bag can exit the container on its own — but your pilot chute is still in its pouch. That's a horseshoe malfunction, and it's one of the nastiest situations you can find yourself in. The canopy may start extracting partially, or the D-bag may stay tethered and flap behind you while you're trying to figure out what just happened.

The real problem is that once the container opens unexpectedly, your rig loses its shape. That makes it harder to reach back and find your main deployment handle. You get two, maybe three methodical attempts to locate it and pull. It's manageable if you stay calm, but it's a situation nobody wants to be in — especially when it's completely preventable. A quick inspection every time you pack is all it takes.

Safety Note If you ever have any doubt about a closing loop's condition, replace it. A new closing loop costs a few dollars. The consequences of a loop failure are not worth the risk.

How to Inspect Your Closing Loop & When to Replace It

You should inspect your closing loop every time you pack.

The USPA 10% Wear Guideline

The United States Parachute Association (USPA) recommends replacing a closing loop when it shows 10% wear. In practice, measuring exactly 10% degradation is difficult. What you're looking for are visible signs that the fibers are breaking down.

Signs It's Time to Replace

Sign	What to Look For
Fuzzy appearance	Individual fibers separating from the braid, giving the loop a furry or rough texture
Visible fraying	Strands visibly broken or pulled away from the main body of the loop
Any doubt at all	If you're not sure whether the loop is still good, replace it. Always err on the side of caution.

Pro Tip As Juan demonstrates in the video, the best time to inspect your closing loop is during packing — right when you can see the loop clearly before inserting the closing pin. Make it a habit every single pack job.

How to Replace a Closing Loop: Step by Step

Replacing a closing loop is a straightforward process, but it requires attention to detail. If you haven't done this before, have a qualified FAA Rigger or USPA Instructor check your work the first few times.

Tools You'll Need

Gather these before you start: a new closing loop (either purchased or one you've made yourself), a packing tool for handling the pin and grommet, and the washer from your existing closing loop setup. The washer sits on the loop and prevents the knot from pulling through the grommet — don't lose it during the replacement.

Remove the Old Loop

Pull the old closing loop all the way up through the grommet. As it comes out, carefully slide the washer off and set it aside. Take a moment to look at the old loop and note where the knot sits relative to the grommet — this gives you a reference point for positioning the knot on the new loop.

Prepare the New Loop

Place the new loop alongside the old one. Tie a simple overhand knot in the new loop, positioning it to match the length of the old loop as closely as possible. The finished length of the loop determines how much tension the closing pin will have, so accuracy matters here.

Add the Washer & Insert

Slide the washer onto the new loop. Carefully feed the loop back through the grommet from behind the container, pulling it through until the washer seats against the grommet. Make sure the washer is in place before the loop goes all the way through.

Verify Closing Pin Tension

This is the most critical step. Insert the main closing pin and check the tension. The loop should provide firm, positive resistance when you close the container. It should not be so tight that you can't close the container, and it should not be so loose that there's slack in the system.

Post-Jump Check

New closing loops can stretch slightly during the first few jumps as the fibers settle under load. After your first five or six jumps with a new loop, re-inspect the tension. If the loop has stretched, you can readjust the knot to shorten it, or if the stretch is significant, add a second knot and reinsert the washer.

First Time? If you have little experience with closing loop replacement, have a qualified FAA Rigger or USPA Instructor inspect your work before jumping. An incorrect loop length can compromise your safety.

How to Make Your Own Closing Loop

Making your own closing loops is a practical rigging skill that gives you independence in maintaining your gear. The process uses gutted 550 paracord and a finger trapping technique to create a clean, professional loop. Juan demonstrates two methods in the video.

Materials

You'll need: gutted 550 cord (the inner reinforcement strands removed, leaving only the outer braid), a finger trapping wire or finger trapping needle, a lighter, and scissors. Juan provides links to these materials in the video description.

Method 1: Finger Trapping Wire

Cut a length of gutted 550 cord slightly more than twice the finished length of your closing loop. Cut at a 45-degree angle to reduce fraying. Push the finger trapping wire through the center of the cord until you reach approximately the midpoint. At the midpoint, carefully squeeze the wire out through the braid. Take the opposite end of the cord, feed it through the loop in the wire for about a quarter inch, then pull the wire back through the braid, drawing the cord end inside with it.

Once the end emerges, remove the wire. Trim the excess braid that was pushed out during the finger trapping, cut the frayed end cleanly, and carefully melt it with a lighter to seal it. Then tie an overhand knot to match the length of your old closing loop, add the washer, and you're ready to install.

Method 2: Finger Trapping Needle

Thread the end of the 550 cord into the finger trapping needle. Find the midpoint of the cord, then insert the needle into the braid about half an inch below the midpoint. Push the needle through the center of the braid until it exits the other side, pulling the cord end through with it. Once through, unthread the cord from the needle, trim the excess, cut the end clean, and melt it with a lighter. Tie the knot and size the loop to match your old one, just as with the wire method.

Quality Check If you're new to making closing loops, have a qualified rigger inspect your work before you jump with it. The finger trapping must be secure and the loop length must produce correct closing pin tension.

Quick Reference

Item	Details
When to inspect	Every pack job, before inserting the closing pin
USPA guideline	Replace at 10% wear
Practical rule	Replace when fuzzy, frayed, thinned, discolored, or any doubt at all
Tools needed	New loop, packing tool, washer (retained from old loop)
DIY materials	Gutted 550 cord, finger trapping wire or needle, lighter, scissors
Correct tension	Firm resistance when closing container — not too tight, not loose
Post-replacement	Re-check tension after 5–6 jumps; readjust knot if loop has stretched
Risk of failure	Horseshoe malfunction (premature deployment in freefall)
When in doubt	Replace it. The cost is negligible compared to the risk.

Need Help With Your Gear?

Have questions about closing loop replacement or any other rigging topic? Juan Arango is an FAA Senior Rigger with years of hands-on experience maintaining and inspecting parachute equipment.